Here are a few important things to consider when shopping for a drum kit.

What determines the value of a Drum kit?
Among other things...the value of a Drum kit is determined mainly by 2 main elements:


The hardware (all the metal & shiny chrome bits that hold the kit  together & makes the placement & movement of the drums possible).

The drum shells. The type of wood they are made of, the bearing edges, the quality hoops & lug designs which all help create the drums' compression ratio. Good compression ratio = good tone.


If the HARDWARE breaks the kit is no longer functional.
If the shells are poorly put together & the compression is bad it renders poor tone & it makes TUNING the kit very challanging. Playing a kit with poor tone or that cant hold its tuning is like playing a piano that goes in & out of tune. That’s bad for any student's “Tonal Development”.

To ensure that these 2 aspects of the kit is of proper standard I choose to work with ONLY the following Manufactures:
Pearl      (1st Prize – their hardware is the best in the business)
Sonor     (Hardware not as good as the top 2 but better that the rest)

These 3 companies have the best ENTRY LEVEL drum kits on the market. Literally the best “Bang for your buck”.


Are all drum kits the same?
All manufactures have a race against patented hardware functionalities & durability & so on...
Anything below “Industry standard” WILL brake & FAIL in its most basic function.


Is it wise to buy a “No-Name” kit for a beginner?
If you are happy to not get any money back on the day you wish to sell the kit again, then yes. These no name kits vary from R1500 – R4000. They are so poorly manufactured that I refuse to assemble them! (They will get the job done, but not for long).


What is Industry standard?
These are Drum kits that are made to the highest possible acoustic quality & hardware functionality for the Price range they are in. All instrumentation constantly vary in price according to the Rand Dollar exchange rate. We will find the best price at your time of purchase.

The only important thing is “VALUE FOR MONEY”. When the day comes that you want to sell your kit you want to know that you will get your money back. Drum kits don't depreciate like most things. If you take care of your instrument & have it serviced once a year you can make profit on the sale if you like.


Why don’t I get Cymbals with a drum kit?
Cymbals are a work of Art in itself. Cymbals are Manufactured by different companies. There are many different cymbals to choose from. Cymbals are made for Different “Tonal Ranges” (sounds). e.g. “Bright & Open” sound for typical Rock & Metal environment to “Dark & Warm” for typical jazz & blues environment.
Your choice is determined by the sound you like & the sound your style of music requires.

There are Entry Level cymbals., called Sheet cymbals. They come in a Box set.
The professional cymbals are called Cast Cymbals. They can be bought Individually.


Why don’t I get a chair with a drum kit?
There are many different chairs to choose from. You buy a chair for the amount of support that it will offer your bum & your back. This is determined by how long you'll be sitting down @ a time.


So what Entry Level Kit Names should I look out for?
Every Drum Range has a name. Pearl name their entry level kit Pearl - "Forum". These names change from time to time. We will find out what Pearl/Yamaha/Sonor entry level kits are called at your time of purchase in order to get the right price for the right product.


Why are the Drum Heads (skins you play on) so thin on Entry level kits?
To keep the cost down they fit the kit with a thin membrane. Although its cheaper to manufacture, the tone goes flat relatively quickly (depending on how much you play).

Drum heads are the “Disposable” parts of any Drum kit. Like Strings to a guitar.
When you replace drum heads with a thicker more durable membrane it may last a few years...depending again how much you play.


What is my option when buying a kit?
Mostly 3 options:
1. New @ the standard 25% discount (that most stores offer).
2. New @ a Half price sale (every store has a clearance sale once a year)
3. Second Hand (after it has been serviced). This can be the best option for the following reasons:


The possibility of getting a kit of higher standard than Entry level for the same price or a fraction more.
Most second hand kits have already had their heads replaced.
The possibility of getting Cymbals in the deal.

In almost every second hand kit for sale, one or the other or all of the above mentioned has been added to the kit. All extra expenses you won't have.


I do help students buy second hand drum kits. Because I Service Drum kits I get you the best possible kit for the best price in mint condition.

You let me know the Limit amount that you don't want to exceed e.g. R7000... I go & find the best possible Drum kit for that price (generally a higher spec than just entry level). I make sure that my service fee (servicing the drum kit) is worked in to your limit amount.

I negotiate with the seller.
I go inspect the drum kit.
You pay the money over to my account.
I buy the kit cash from them.
I service it & deliver it to your door.


If I buy a new drum kit how do I assemble it & tune it?
You probably can't...I will assemble & tune your new drum kit for R500.

Last thought: If you wish to purchase a kit YOURSELF by any of the above mentioned means, you are welcome to contact me BEFORE you buy to make sure the facts you were given are accurate.